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Oceans and Ocean Currents: Tides, Salinity and PYQs

Ocean notes for competitive exams: the five oceans, ocean floor relief, salinity, tides, tsunamis, warm and cold currents, El Nino and their climatic effects.

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Oceans and Ocean Currents: Tides, Salinity and PYQs — GK24 title card
Oceans and Ocean Currents: Tides, Salinity and PYQs — GK24 title card

Oceans cover about seventy-one per cent of the surface of the earth and hold roughly ninety-seven per cent of all the water on the planet. Because that water is constantly in motion, this single topic supplies questions on ocean relief, salinity, tides, currents and El Nino in almost every general studies paper. The facts below are the ones that repeat.

The five oceans

The International Hydrographic Organization recognises five oceans. The Pacific is the largest and the deepest, roughly triangular, and it holds the Mariana Trench, whose Challenger Deep is the deepest known point on earth at about eleven kilometres below sea level. The rim of the Pacific is the Ring of Fire, a horseshoe of volcanoes and earthquake zones. The Atlantic is the second largest and is S-shaped; its heavily indented coastline and the traffic between Europe and North America make it the busiest trading ocean, and the Mid-Atlantic Ridge runs down its centre. The Indian Ocean is the only ocean named after a country, and it is the only one whose northern currents reverse with the monsoon. The Southern Ocean surrounds Antarctica, and the Arctic Ocean is the smallest and shallowest.

Relief of the ocean floor

Moving seaward from the coast, the ocean floor is divided into the continental shelf, the continental slope, the continental rise, the abyssal plain and the deeps or trenches. The continental shelf is the shallow submerged extension of the land, usually taken to a depth of about two hundred metres. It is the richest part of the ocean because sunlight reaches the bottom, so most of the world's great fishing grounds and most offshore oil lie there. Beyond the abyssal plains rise mid-oceanic ridges, submarine volcanic peaks called seamounts, flat-topped seamounts called guyots, and coral atolls. Trenches are the deepest features and lie close to volcanic island arcs.

Salinity and temperature

Salinity is the amount of dissolved salt in sea water, measured in parts per thousand, and the average for the oceans is about thirty-five parts per thousand. It is highest in the subtropics near twenty to forty degrees latitude, where evaporation is strong and rainfall low, and lower at the equator, where heavy rain dilutes the water, and in polar seas, where melting ice does the same. Among open seas the Red Sea is the most saline, the Baltic Sea the least. Enclosed water bodies such as Lake Van in Turkey and the Dead Sea are far more saline than any ocean. Sea temperature falls with depth, and the layer of rapid fall between the warm surface layer and the cold deep water is called the thermocline.

Waves, tides and tsunamis

Waves are made by wind dragging on the surface; the water itself moves very little while the energy travels forward. Tides are the periodic rise and fall of sea level caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun together with the centrifugal force of the earth-moon system. When the sun, the earth and the moon lie in a straight line, at new moon and full moon, their pulls add up and produce the highest tides, called spring tides. When the sun and the moon are at right angles to the earth, at the first and the third quarter, the pulls partly cancel and give the lowest tides, called neap tides. The moon's pull is the stronger of the two because it is much nearer. The highest tidal range in the world is recorded in the Bay of Fundy in Canada. A tsunami is not a tide at all: it is a train of long waves set off by an undersea earthquake, landslide or volcanic eruption, and the Indian Ocean tsunami of December 2004 is the standard example.

Ocean currents

Currents are steady movements of a large mass of ocean water in a definite direction. They are driven by the planetary winds, by differences in temperature and salinity and therefore in density, and are deflected by the Coriolis force, which turns them to the right in the northern hemisphere and to the left in the southern. The result is a set of large circular gyres, clockwise north of the equator and anticlockwise south of it. Currents flowing from the equator towards the poles are warm; those flowing from the poles towards the equator are cold.

OceanWarm currentsCold currents
PacificKuroshio, North Pacific Drift, East AustralianOyashio or Kurile, California, Peru or Humboldt
AtlanticGulf Stream, North Atlantic Drift, BrazilLabrador, Canary, Benguela, Falkland
IndianAgulhas, Mozambique, South West Monsoon DriftWest Australian

What currents do

Where a warm and a cold current meet, plankton multiplies and the world's best fishing grounds appear, along with dense fog. The Grand Banks off Newfoundland, where the Gulf Stream meets the Labrador current, and the seas off Hokkaido, where the Kuroshio meets the Oyashio, are the two examples every paper uses. The North Atlantic Drift keeps the ports of north-western Europe free of ice in winter although they lie far north. Cold currents flowing along western coasts in the tropics chill the air above them and help create coastal deserts such as the Atacama beside the Peru current and the Namib beside the Benguela current. El Nino is the periodic appearance of unusually warm water off the coast of Peru and Ecuador, which weakens the trade winds, ruins the anchovy fishery and is generally associated with a weak Indian monsoon; the opposite, cooler phase is called La Nina, and the linked pressure see-saw is the Southern Oscillation.

Exam Point of View

Three kinds of questions dominate. First, straight matching: name the ocean of the Mariana Trench or the Ring of Fire, or sort currents into warm and cold. The safest rule is that a current moving away from the equator is warm and one moving towards it is cold, so Gulf Stream, Kuroshio, Brazil and Agulhas are warm while Labrador, Canary, Benguela, California and Peru are cold. Second, cause questions on tides: spring tide at syzygy, neap tide at quadrature, highest range at the Bay of Fundy. Third, effects: fog and fisheries at Newfoundland and Hokkaido, ice-free European ports from the North Atlantic Drift, coastal deserts beside cold currents, and El Nino weakening the monsoon. The usual traps are calling a tsunami a tidal wave, mixing the Canary with the Kuroshio, and thinking spring tides have something to do with the spring season.

Important Facts

Share of earth's surfaceOceans cover about 71 per cent of the surface
Share of earth's waterAbout 97 per cent of the planet's water is in the oceans
Largest and deepest oceanPacific Ocean
Deepest pointChallenger Deep, Mariana Trench, Pacific Ocean
Ring of FireThe volcanic and earthquake belt around the Pacific
Ocean named after a countryIndian Ocean
Continental shelf depthShallow shelf generally taken to about 200 metres
Average salinityAbout 35 parts per thousand
Most saline open seaRed Sea; the Baltic Sea is among the least saline
Spring tideAt new moon and full moon, when sun, earth and moon are in a straight line
Neap tideAt the first and third quarter, when sun and moon are at right angles
Highest tidal rangeBay of Fundy, Canada
Warm currentsGulf Stream, North Atlantic Drift, Kuroshio, Brazil, Agulhas, East Australian
Cold currentsLabrador, Canary, Benguela, California, Peru or Humboldt, Oyashio, West Australian
Great fishing groundsGrand Banks off Newfoundland and the seas off Hokkaido, where warm meets cold
El NinoWarm water off Peru and Ecuador; La Nina is the opposite cool phase

Practice MCQs on this topic

Q1.GeographyAsked in: Uttar Pradesh · UPPSC CS 2020, General Studies Paper IMedium

Which of the following ocean currents is associated with the Indian Ocean?

  1. A.Florida current
  2. B.Canary current
  3. C.Agulhas current
  4. D.Kurile current
Show answer

Correct answer: C. Agulhas current

Explanation

The correct answer is C, the Agulhas current. It is a warm current of the Indian Ocean that flows southward along the eastern coast of southern Africa, carrying tropical water towards the Cape before most of it turns back into the Indian Ocean. Along with the Mozambique and West Australian currents it makes up the southern Indian Ocean gyre.

Option A, the Florida current, belongs to the Atlantic; it carries water out of the Gulf of Mexico past Florida and feeds the Gulf Stream. Option B, the Canary current, is also Atlantic, a cold current flowing south along the north-western coast of Africa past the Canary Islands. Option D, the Kurile or Oyashio current, is a cold current of the northern Pacific that flows south past the Kurile Islands towards Japan, where it meets the warm Kuroshio.

Q2.GeographyAsked in: SSC CHSL · 13 March, 2023, Shift 4Easy

El Nino is a name given to the periodic development of a warm ocean current along the coast of _______.

  1. A.Columbia
  2. B.Peru
  3. C.Chile
  4. D.Bolivia
Show answer

Correct answer: B. Peru

Explanation

The correct answer is B, Peru. El Nino, Spanish for the child, is the warm surface water that appears off the coast of Peru and Ecuador around Christmas in some years, replacing the normally cold Peru or Humboldt current. When it develops strongly the trade winds weaken, the anchovy catch collapses because nutrient-rich cold water stops rising, and Indian monsoon rainfall tends to be below normal.

Option A, Colombia, faces both the Pacific and the Caribbean but lies too close to the equator and is not the coast the phenomenon is named for. Option C, Chile, is washed by the same cold Peru current further south, yet the warming is described and measured off Peru and Ecuador. Option D, Bolivia, is a landlocked country in South America with no sea coast at all, so no ocean current can run along it.

Q3.GeographyAsked in: SSC CGL · 11 April 2022, Shift 1Easy

With which of the following oceans would you associate the 'Ring of Fire'?

  1. A.Pacific
  2. B.Indian
  3. C.Atlantic
  4. D.Arctic
Show answer

Correct answer: A. Pacific

Explanation

The correct answer is A, the Pacific. The Ring of Fire is a horseshoe-shaped belt running around the rim of the Pacific Ocean, from the Andes up the west coast of the Americas, across the Aleutians and down through Japan, the Philippines and Indonesia to New Zealand. It holds the majority of the world's active volcanoes and is the source of most large earthquakes, because it follows the lines along which oceanic plates are being subducted.

Option B, the Indian Ocean, does have the seismic Sunda arc on its eastern edge, but that arc is counted as part of the Pacific ring and the ocean as a whole has no such belt. Option C, the Atlantic, is widening rather than closing, so its activity is concentrated along the Mid-Atlantic Ridge and is mostly gentle. Option D, the Arctic, is tectonically quiet apart from the slow spreading ridge that continues from the Atlantic.

Q4.GeographyAsked in: SSC CGL · 01 Dec 2022, Shift 4Easy

The percentage of earth's water found in the oceans is ______.

  1. A.94 percent
  2. B.97.2 percent
  3. C.90.2 percent
  4. D.92.2 percent
Show answer

Correct answer: B. 97.2 percent

Explanation

The correct answer is B, 97.2 percent. Textbooks describing the distribution of water on earth give about 97.2 per cent as ocean water, roughly 2 per cent locked in ice caps and glaciers, and well under 1 per cent as groundwater, lakes, rivers, soil moisture and water vapour together. This is why fresh water is described as a scarce resource even though the planet looks blue from space.

Option A, 94 per cent, option C, 90.2 per cent, and option D, 92.2 per cent, are all too low and would leave an impossibly large share of the planet's water as fresh water. The safe way to remember the set is that the oceans take a little over 97 per cent, the frozen ice sheets of Antarctica and Greenland take most of what is left, and everything that human beings actually use comes out of the small remainder.

Q5.GeographyMedium

Spring tides, the highest tides of the month, occur when:

  1. A.The sun, the earth and the moon are in a straight line
  2. B.The sun and the moon are at right angles with respect to the earth
  3. C.The moon is farthest from the earth
  4. D.The season of spring begins in the northern hemisphere
Show answer

Correct answer: A. The sun, the earth and the moon are in a straight line

Explanation

The correct answer is A. Spring tides occur at new moon and at full moon, when the sun, the earth and the moon lie in a straight line, a position called syzygy. The gravitational pulls of the sun and the moon then act along the same line and reinforce each other, so the high tides are unusually high and the low tides unusually low. Spring tides therefore come twice in a lunar month.

Option B describes the position at the first and third quarter, called quadrature, when the two pulls partly cancel and produce the weakest tides of the month, the neap tides. Option C, the moon at apogee, makes tides slightly weaker rather than stronger, since the moon's pull falls off with distance. Option D is the common trap: the word spring here means to leap up, and the tide has nothing to do with the spring season.

Q6.GeographyMedium

The highest tidal range in the world is recorded at which of the following?

  1. A.Gulf of Mexico
  2. B.Bay of Fundy
  3. C.Persian Gulf
  4. D.Gulf of Aden
Show answer

Correct answer: B. Bay of Fundy

Explanation

The correct answer is B, the Bay of Fundy, which lies between the Canadian provinces of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. The bay narrows and shallows inland, so the incoming tidal wave is funnelled into a smaller and smaller cross-section and its height is greatly magnified, giving the greatest difference between high and low water anywhere on earth. Shape, not size, is what produces a large tidal range.

Option A, the Gulf of Mexico, is wide and almost enclosed, and much of it has only a very small daily tide. Option C, the Persian Gulf, is shallow and nearly landlocked, so the tidal wave entering through the narrow Strait of Hormuz remains modest. Option D, the Gulf of Aden, opens into the Arabian Sea without any funnelling shape. In India the largest ranges are found in the funnel-shaped Gulf of Khambhat and Gulf of Kachchh.

Q7.GeographyEasy

Which of the following is a cold ocean current?

  1. A.Gulf Stream
  2. B.Kuroshio current
  3. C.Benguela current
  4. D.Brazil current
Show answer

Correct answer: C. Benguela current

Explanation

The correct answer is C, the Benguela current. It flows northward along the western coast of southern Africa, carrying cool water from the Southern Ocean towards the equator, and the upwelling along it makes the Namibian coast a rich fishing zone while helping to keep the Namib desert dry. The simple rule is that a current moving from the poles towards the equator is cold.

Option A, the Gulf Stream, carries warm water from the Gulf of Mexico north-east across the Atlantic and is the classic warm current. Option B, the Kuroshio, is the warm current of the western Pacific that flows north past Japan and is sometimes called the Japan current. Option D, the Brazil current, is a warm current flowing south along the eastern coast of South America. All three move away from the equator and so carry warm water.

Q8.GeographyMedium

The Grand Banks near Newfoundland is one of the world's richest fishing grounds because it is the meeting place of which two currents?

  1. A.Kuroshio and Oyashio
  2. B.Gulf Stream and Labrador current
  3. C.Canary and Benguela currents
  4. D.Peru and East Australian currents
Show answer

Correct answer: B. Gulf Stream and Labrador current

Explanation

The correct answer is B, the Gulf Stream and the Labrador current. The warm Gulf Stream moving north-east meets the cold Labrador current coming south past Newfoundland. Nutrients carried by the cold water mix with the warmer surface layer, plankton multiplies, and huge shoals of cod once gathered there. The same meeting cools moist air abruptly and makes the Grand Banks one of the foggiest places at sea.

Option A, the Kuroshio and Oyashio, do meet and create an equally famous fishery, but that is off Hokkaido in Japan, not Newfoundland. Option C, the Canary and Benguela currents, are both cold, flow along African coasts thousands of kilometres apart and never meet. Option D pairs a South American current with an Australian one lying in different oceans, so no meeting is possible.

Q9.GeographyEasy

The average salinity of ocean water is about:

  1. A.15 parts per thousand
  2. B.25 parts per thousand
  3. C.35 parts per thousand
  4. D.45 parts per thousand
Show answer

Correct answer: C. 35 parts per thousand

Explanation

The correct answer is C, about 35 parts per thousand, which means roughly thirty-five grams of dissolved salt in every kilogram of sea water. Sodium chloride makes up most of it, with magnesium, calcium and potassium salts making up the rest. Salinity varies with evaporation, rainfall, river inflow and the melting or freezing of ice, so the figure is an average rather than a fixed value.

Option A, 15 parts per thousand, is closer to brackish water in an estuary or to the low-salinity Baltic Sea, where many rivers pour in fresh water. Option B, 25 parts per thousand, is still well below the open ocean figure. Option D, 45 parts per thousand, is higher than any open ocean value; even the Red Sea, the most saline of the open seas, stays near the low forties, and only enclosed lakes such as the Dead Sea go far above that.

Q10.GeographyMedium

The Challenger Deep, the deepest known point of the ocean floor, lies in which trench?

  1. A.Puerto Rico Trench
  2. B.Java or Sunda Trench
  3. C.Mariana Trench
  4. D.Tonga Trench
Show answer

Correct answer: C. Mariana Trench

Explanation

The correct answer is C, the Mariana Trench, which lies in the western Pacific east of the Mariana Islands. Its southern end holds the Challenger Deep, the deepest surveyed point on earth at roughly eleven kilometres below sea level, deep enough to swallow Mount Everest with water to spare. Trenches like it form where one oceanic plate is being pushed down beneath another, which is why they run beside volcanic island arcs.

Option A, the Puerto Rico Trench, is the deepest point of the Atlantic but is far shallower than the Mariana. Option B, the Java or Sunda Trench, is the deepest part of the Indian Ocean and lies south of Indonesia. Option D, the Tonga Trench, is in the south Pacific and is among the deepest in the world, yet its greatest depth is still less than that of the Challenger Deep.

Q11.GeographyMedium

The continental shelf is important for fisheries mainly because:

  1. A.It is the deepest part of the ocean floor
  2. B.It is shallow, so sunlight reaches the bottom and plankton grows well
  3. C.It has the highest salinity in the ocean
  4. D.It is free from the effect of ocean currents
Show answer

Correct answer: B. It is shallow, so sunlight reaches the bottom and plankton grows well

Explanation

The correct answer is B. The continental shelf is the gently sloping submerged edge of a continent, usually taken down to about two hundred metres. Because it is shallow, sunlight penetrates to the sea bed and supports abundant plankton, and rivers add nutrients from the land as well. Fish gather where plankton is plentiful, so almost all the world's major fishing grounds, and most offshore petroleum, lie on continental shelves.

Option A is wrong because the deepest parts of the ocean are the trenches, which lie far beyond the shelf and are dark and nearly lifeless by comparison. Option C is wrong because the shelf usually has slightly lower salinity than the open ocean, since rivers dilute it. Option D is wrong as well: currents and upwelling reach shelf waters constantly, and in fact the upwelling of nutrients along some shelves is exactly what makes them so productive.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between a tide and a tsunami?

A tide is the regular daily rise and fall of sea level produced by the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun; it can be predicted years in advance. A tsunami is a series of very long waves set off suddenly by an undersea earthquake, a submarine landslide or a volcanic eruption, and it has nothing to do with the moon. Calling a tsunami a tidal wave is therefore wrong.

Why are the world's best fishing grounds found where warm and cold currents meet?

The cold current brings up nutrients from below while the warm current supplies a temperature that plankton can grow in. The mixing of the two produces enormous quantities of plankton, which feeds shoals of fish. The same meeting also chills moist warm air and creates dense fog, which is why the Grand Banks off Newfoundland is famous both for cod and for fog.

Why is salinity highest in the subtropics and not at the equator?

Near twenty to forty degrees latitude the air is descending, skies are clear and evaporation is strong while rainfall is very low, so the salt left behind concentrates. At the equator heavy daily rainfall adds fresh water and dilutes the surface, and near the poles melting ice does the same, so both regions have lower salinity than the subtropical belts.

How do cold ocean currents help form deserts?

A cold current chills the air resting on it, so that air becomes stable and cannot rise far. Onshore winds crossing it are cooled, lose moisture as coastal fog rather than rain, and reach the land dry. This is why the Atacama desert lies beside the cold Peru current and the Namib beside the cold Benguela current, both on tropical western coasts.

How does El Nino affect India?

In an El Nino year the eastern Pacific off Peru becomes unusually warm, the trade winds weaken and the zone of rising air and heavy rain shifts eastward across the Pacific. The pressure pattern that normally draws moist air into South Asia is disturbed, and Indian south-west monsoon rainfall is more often below normal. It is a tendency and not a rule, so not every El Nino year brings drought.

Sources

  • Fundamentals of Physical Geography (Class XI), chapters on ocean water and movements of ocean water — NCERT
  • India: Physical Environment (Class XI), chapter on the oceans around India — NCERT
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Oceans and Ocean Currents: Tides, Salinity and PYQs: Geography GK