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Traditional Dresses of Indian States: Dress to State List

Traditional dresses of Indian states for exams: Mekhela Chador, Phanek, Pheran, Puanchei, Pano Bhaju and more, with famous weaves and state pairings.

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Traditional Dresses of Indian States: Dress to State List — GK24 title card
Traditional Dresses of Indian States: Dress to State List — GK24 title card

The traditional dress of a state is one of the most dependable marks in a General Knowledge paper, because the question is almost always a simple pairing: a dress, a shawl or a headgear on one side and a state on the other. SSC, Railway and State exams ask it from Art and Culture as well as from the Indian States and Union Territories section, and the same twenty or so names return year after year. These notes set out the dress of every large state for men and for women, region by region, and then collect the names that actually decide the answer.

How the question is set

Three forms repeat. The first names a dress and asks for the state, as in Mekhela Chador belongs to which state. The second names a state and offers four dresses. The third hides the pairing inside a match-the-following question with four dresses and four states. A rarer fourth form asks about a famous weave rather than a garment, such as the state of the Patola saree. In every form the work is the same: fix the name to the state, because the paper never asks you to describe the cloth.

North and north-west India

In Rajasthan men wear the dhoti with an angarkha or bandhgala and a pagri or safa, and women the ghagra with a choli and an odhni. Punjab pairs the kurta with a tehmat or lungi and a turban for men, and the salwar kameez with a dupatta, often a phulkari dupatta, for women. Haryana keeps the daaman, kurti and chunder for women. In Himachal Pradesh the Himachali cap and the churidar pajama mark the men, while women wear the reshta with a dhatu over the head. Uttarakhand is known for the pichhora, the yellow and red ceremonial odhni of Kumaon. Jammu and Kashmir has the pheran, the long loose gown worn by men and women alike, with the taranga and kasaba headdresses of Kashmiri women. Uttar Pradesh and Bihar stay with the dhoti kurta and the saree, Bihar wearing it in the seedha anchal style, with Lucknow chikankari and Bhagalpuri tussar as their best known cloth.

West, central and south India

Gujarat dresses its men in the kediyu and chorno with a phento, and its women in the chaniya choli, with the panetar and the Patan Patola saree for weddings. Maharashtra has the nauvari or kasta saree of nine yards and the pheta for men, with the Paithani as its festive silk. In Goa the Pano Bhaju is the traditional dress of Hindu women, and the Kunbi saree that of the Kunbi community. Madhya Pradesh wears the lehenga choli with Chanderi and Maheshwari silks, Chhattisgarh the lugda and polkha, and Jharkhand the panchi and parhan. Further south, Tamil Nadu men wear the veshti with an angavastram, and women the Kanchipuram silk saree, with the pattu pavadai for girls. Kerala is identified with the mundum neriyathum and the kasavu saree with its golden border. Karnataka keeps the panche and the Mysore peta for men, and the Ilkal and Mysore silk saree for women. Andhra Pradesh and Telangana are known for the langa voni, the half saree of young women, and for Pochampally ikat and Kalamkari.

East India and the North East

West Bengal wears the dhoti and panjabi and the tant saree in the atpoure style, with Baluchari and Jamdani as its famous weaves; Odisha wears the Sambalpuri and Kataki saree. The North East answers more questions than its size suggests. Assam has the mekhela chador with the gamosa and its golden muga silk; Manipur the phanek and innaphi, with the potloi for brides; Mizoram the puanchei worn in the Cheraw dance; Meghalaya the jainsem and dhara of the Khasi and the dakmanda of the Garo; Tripura the rignai and risa; Nagaland its tribal shawls, among them the Tsungkotepsu of the Ao men; Arunachal Pradesh the galey of the Apatani; and Sikkim the bakhu or kho with the honju, besides the chaubandi cholo of its Nepali community.

State and dress at a glance

StateWomenMen
RajasthanGhagra, choli, odhniDhoti, angarkha, safa
PunjabSalwar kameez, phulkari dupattaKurta with tehmat, turban
Jammu and KashmirPheran with tarangaPheran
MaharashtraNauvari saree, PaithaniDhotar with pheta
GujaratChaniya choli, panetarKediyu and chorno
KeralaMundum neriyathumMundu
Tamil NaduKanchipuram sareeVeshti and angavastram
AssamMekhela chadorDhoti with gamosa
ManipurPhanek and innaphiPheijom
MizoramPuancheiMizo shawl
MeghalayaJainsem, dhara, dakmandaJymphong
GoaPano Bhaju, Kunbi sareeKashti with shirt

Weaves worth learning with the dress

  • Patola of Patan and bandhani tie and dye stand for Gujarat; Paithani and Himroo for Maharashtra.
  • Kanchipuram silk is Tamil Nadu, Kasavu is Kerala, Ilkal and Mysore silk are Karnataka.
  • Pochampally ikat, Gadwal and Kalamkari belong to Telangana and Andhra Pradesh.
  • Jamdani, Baluchari, tant and kantha embroidery belong to West Bengal; bandha ikat to Odisha.
  • Muga, eri and pat silk belong to Assam; phulkari to Punjab; chikankari to Lucknow in Uttar Pradesh.
  • Chanderi and Maheshwari are Madhya Pradesh; Kota doria and leheriya are Rajasthan.

Exam Point of View

Papers ask this topic as a straight pairing, so prepare it as a list. Four names carry most of the marks: Mekhela Chador, Pheran, Puanchei and Pano Bhaju. Expect match-the-following sets that mix North Eastern dresses, since all of them sound alike to an unprepared candidate, and expect a weave in place of a garment, such as the state of Patola, Paithani or Pochampally. Traps are the near pairs: Phanek against Puanchei, Jainsem against Dakmanda, Rignai against Panchi Parhan, and Pheran against the Ladakhi goncha. Learn the men's dress too, because questions on the veshti, mundu, kediyu, pheijom and dhotar do appear.

Important Facts

AssamMekhela Chador, with the gamosa and muga silk
ManipurPhanek and Innaphi; potloi for brides
MizoramPuanchei, worn in the Cheraw dance
MeghalayaJainsem and Dhara (Khasi), Dakmanda (Garo)
TripuraRignai and Risa
Jammu and KashmirPheran with taranga or kasaba
GoaPano Bhaju; Kunbi saree
KeralaMundum Neriyathum; kasavu saree
MaharashtraNauvari or Kasta saree; pheta and Paithani
RajasthanGhagra, choli and odhni; safa and pagri
JharkhandPanchi and Parhan
KarnatakaIlkal and Mysore silk saree; Mysore peta

Practice MCQs on this topic

Frequently Asked Questions

Which state is known for the Mekhela Chador?

Assam. The mekhela is the pleated lower wrap and the chador the upper cloth, woven from muga, eri or pat silk and worn with the gamosa.

What is the traditional dress of Goa?

Pano Bhaju for Hindu women, along with the Kunbi saree of the Kunbi community; men traditionally wore the kashti with a shirt.

Which dress is worn during the Cheraw dance of Mizoram?

The Puanchei, the striped festive wrap of Mizo women, usually worn with the kawrchei blouse at Chapchar Kut and during Cheraw.

Is the Pheran worn only by women?

No. The pheran is worn by both men and women in the Kashmir valley; only the headdress, the taranga or kasaba, is particular to women.

Which traditional saree is draped in nine yards?

The Nauvari or Kasta saree of Maharashtra, draped without a petticoat so that the pleats pass between the legs.

Sources

  • Handlooms and Handicrafts of the States: Weaves and Traditional Attire — Ministry of Textiles, Government of India
  • Know India: States and Union Territories, Art and Culture — National Portal of India
  • Zonal Cultural Centres: Costumes and Folk Traditions of the Regions — Ministry of Culture, Government of India
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